How is filigree jewellery made?

A jeweller draws wire to a very fine gauge, then twists, coils and bends it into the desired pattern, soldering each element in place on a flat surface or over a frame. It is extremely time-consuming work that requires a steady hand and patience.

The openwork structure does make filigree more delicate than solid metalwork, and fine wires can catch and bend if snagged. With reasonable care it holds up well; just avoid wearing heavily filigree pieces when doing anything that might pull or crush the work.

What styles of jewellery use filigree?

Filigree appears across many traditions: Indian bridal jewellery, Portuguese silver work, Yemeni gold jewellery and, in the West, Edwardian and Art Nouveau pieces. It suits rings, earrings, pendants and brooches where a light, decorative feel is wanted.

What is filigree jewellery?

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

Filigree is a technique in which fine threads or beads of precious metal wire are twisted, bent and soldered into delicate, lace-like openwork patterns. The effect can look like frost or cobweb, built up from scrolls, spirals and curling tendrils without any solid sheet metal behind them. Gold and silver are the traditional materials, and the craft has flourished in many cultures including Indian, Portuguese, Chinese and Middle Eastern jewellery traditions. In Western jewellery it was particularly fashionable in the Edwardian era for rings, pendants and brooches.

Frequently asked questions

How is filigree jewellery made?: A jeweller draws wire to a very fine gauge, then twists, coils and bends it into the desired pattern, soldering each element in place on a flat surface or over a frame. It is extremely time-consuming work that requires a steady hand and patience.
Is filigree fragile?: The openwork structure does make filigree more delicate than solid metalwork, and fine wires can catch and bend if snagged. With reasonable care it holds up well; just avoid wearing heavily filigree pieces when doing anything that might pull or crush the work.
What styles of jewellery use filigree?: Filigree appears across many traditions: Indian bridal jewellery, Portuguese silver work, Yemeni gold jewellery and, in the West, Edwardian and Art Nouveau pieces. It suits rings, earrings, pendants and brooches where a light, decorative feel is wanted.

Designing a ring

Talk through filigree with us

Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

Contact the studio