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What is ivory in jewellery?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

Ivory is the hard, creamy white dentine that forms the tusks of elephants, walruses and a few other animals, and it has been carved and used in jewellery, ornamentation and decorative objects for thousands of years. It is smooth, warm to the touch and takes fine carving with exceptional detail, which is why it was so prized. The commercial ivory trade has been banned internationally since 1989 under CITES because of the catastrophic impact on elephant populations, and most countries have strict controls on the sale of antique ivory too.

Frequently asked questions

Is ivory illegal to buy and sell?
New ivory has been banned from international trade since 1989. Antique ivory, generally pieces confirmed to pre-date 1947 or 1975 depending on the jurisdiction, may be sold in some countries with proper documentation, but the rules are complex and strictly enforced. In Australia, trade in ivory is tightly regulated and buyers should seek legal advice before purchasing any ivory item.
What are the alternatives to ivory in jewellery?
Several materials are used as ivory substitutes. Tagua nut, also known as vegetable ivory, is a hard white seed that carves very similarly to genuine ivory. Bone and antler from food industry by-products are other ethical options, and contemporary resin and plastics can also replicate the look for costume and fashion pieces.
How can you tell if ivory is real or imitation?
Real ivory shows fine cross-hatch lines called Schreger lines visible in cross-section, a pattern that no imitation reproduces exactly. It also feels slightly waxy and warm. Under ultraviolet light old ivory tends to glow blue-white. Imitation materials like celluloid and resin are lighter, may show mould lines, and lack the characteristic grain.

Designing a ring

Talk through ivory with us

Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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