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What is a marquise cut diamond?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

A marquise cut is an elongated, boat-shaped diamond or gemstone faceted with an oval outline that tapers to a sharp point at each end. The name comes from the French marquis, and legend has it that Louis XV commissioned the shape to mimic the lips of the Marquise de Pompadour, though the story is partly apocryphal. The French also call it navette, meaning little boat. With its elongated outline, a well-proportioned marquise maximises apparent carat weight and can make the finger look longer and slimmer. The pointed tips are the most vulnerable points of the stone and should be protected by V-shaped prongs.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a marquise cut and a navette?
They are the same shape: an elongated oval with pointed ends. Navette is the older French term meaning little boat, while marquise is the name more commonly used in the contemporary diamond and engagement ring market. Both refer to the same cut.
What is the bow-tie effect in a marquise cut diamond?
A bow-tie is a dark shadow that can appear across the middle of elongated cuts like marquise, oval and pear. It is caused by light not being reflected back from the central facets due to the geometry of the cut. A well-proportioned stone minimises the bow-tie; a very pronounced one is a sign of poor cut quality.
Does a marquise cut make the finger look longer?
Yes. Worn with the points running lengthwise along the finger, the elongated shape draws the eye up and down rather than across, which tends to make the finger appear slimmer and longer. It is one of the more flattering cuts for those who want that effect.

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