What is piqué in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Piqué is a type of decorative jewellery and ornamental work in which tortoiseshell or horn is inlaid with tiny pins, dots or strips of gold, silver or mother of pearl to create intricate patterns. The metal inlay sits flush with the surface of the shell, and when done well the contrast between the warm amber of the tortoiseshell and the bright metal is striking. Piqué was particularly fashionable in 18th and 19th century Europe, and fine antique piqué pieces, especially in gold, are collected today.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between piqué point and piqué posé?
- Piqué point uses small inlaid dots or studs of metal in geometric or floral arrangements, while piqué posé uses thin strips or larger pieces of metal shaped into scrollwork and foliage patterns. The latter is generally considered more elaborate and valuable.
- Is tortoiseshell piqué still made?
- Genuine tortoiseshell has been banned from international trade since 1975 under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, as it comes from endangered sea turtles. Antique piqué pieces with proper documentation can be legally sold, but new genuine tortoiseshell piqué is not produced.
- How should antique piqué jewellery be cared for?
- Tortoiseshell is sensitive to heat, dryness and moisture, so piqué pieces should be stored away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Avoid getting them wet and do not use chemical cleaners. A light application of beeswax-based polish can help prevent drying and cracking.
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