What does aurora borealis mean in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
In jewellery, aurora borealis refers to a thin iridescent coating applied to glass or crystal beads and stones, developed by Swarovski in 1955 in collaboration with Christian Dior. The coating makes the surface shift through greens, blues, purples and pinks as the light moves, mimicking the shimmering colours of the northern lights from which it takes its name. Aurora borealis crystals became hugely popular in mid-20th-century costume jewellery and remain a signature look for vintage and retro-inspired pieces.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the aurora borealis coating on crystals?
- It is a very thin metallic oxide coating applied to one side of a crystal or glass bead, originally developed by Swarovski. The coating creates optical interference that produces shifting rainbow colours, similar to oil on water or a soap bubble.
- When did aurora borealis jewellery become popular?
- Swarovski launched the AB coating in 1955, and it was immediately taken up by Christian Dior for his costume jewellery collections. Through the late 1950s and 1960s it spread widely, and pieces from this era are now sought-after vintage collectables.
- Can you find aurora borealis in fine jewellery?
- The original AB coating is associated with crystal and glass rather than precious stones, so it is most common in costume and vintage fashion jewellery. Contemporary jewellers sometimes work with similar iridescent effects in titanium or special-finish coatings on metal.
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