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LILY DIA

What does aurora borealis mean in jewellery?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 28 July 2026

Definition

In jewellery, aurora borealis is an iridescent coating applied to glass or crystal beads and stones; it is a surface finish, not a gemstone variety. Swarovski developed the effect in 1956 in collaboration with Christian Dior, and the coating makes the surface shift through greens, blues, purples and pinks as the light moves, mimicking the shimmering colours of the northern lights it takes its name from. Aurora borealis crystals became hugely popular in mid-20th-century costume jewellery and remain a signature look for vintage and retro-inspired pieces.

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    Gemstone education hub

    The naturally iridescent stones, opal, moonstone and pearl, and how their colour play differs from a coating.

Frequently asked questions

What is the aurora borealis coating on crystals?
It is a very thin metallic oxide coating applied to one side of a crystal or glass bead, originally developed by Swarovski. The coating creates optical interference that produces shifting rainbow colours, similar to oil on water or a soap bubble.
When did aurora borealis jewellery become popular?
Swarovski created the AB effect in 1956 with Christian Dior, who took it up immediately for his costume jewellery collections. Through the late 1950s and 1960s it spread widely, and pieces from this era are now sought-after vintage collectables.
Is aurora borealis the same as a naturally iridescent gemstone?
No. Stones like labradorite, opal, moonstone and pearl produce their colour play from their own internal structure, so the effect goes all the way through the material. Aurora borealis is an applied surface coating on glass or crystal, and if the coating wears or scratches, the plain material shows underneath.
Can you find aurora borealis in fine jewellery?
The original AB coating is associated with crystal and glass rather than precious stones, so it is most common in costume and vintage fashion jewellery. Contemporary jewellers sometimes work with similar iridescent effects in titanium or special-finish coatings on metal.

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