What is a brilliant cut diamond?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
The brilliant cut is a cutting style for diamonds and other gemstones that uses a specific arrangement of 58 facets, comprising 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, designed to maximise the return of white light and create the greatest possible brilliance and sparkle. The standard round brilliant cut was refined in its modern form in the early 20th century by Marcel Tolkowsky, whose 1919 mathematical analysis established ideal proportions. It is by far the most popular diamond shape sold today, and the cutting style is also applied to oval, pear, marquise and other shapes as modified brilliants.
Frequently asked questions
- How many facets does a brilliant cut diamond have?
- A standard round brilliant cut has 58 facets: one table on top, 32 crown facets including the 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets and 16 upper girdle facets, and 25 pavilion facets including 8 main pavilion facets, 16 lower girdle facets and usually a small culet at the bottom.
- What is the difference between a brilliant cut and a step cut?
- A brilliant cut has triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to bounce light back through the top and create maximum sparkle. A step cut uses long rectangular facets in concentric rows, which produces a cleaner, more mirror-like look with more emphasis on clarity and colour than on sparkle.
- Why is the round brilliant cut so popular?
- Its mathematical proportions, when cut correctly, produce more brilliance and fire than almost any other shape, and the round outline suits most settings and hand shapes. It also tends to retain the most value of any diamond shape.
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