What is a cameo in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
A cameo is a piece of jewellery or decorative object carved in raised relief, meaning the design stands above the background rather than being cut into it. The most traditional subjects are a woman's profile portrait, classical figures, or scenes from mythology, carved from layered materials such as shell, banded agate, onyx or coral so the raised image contrasts against a different-coloured ground. Cameos have been popular since antiquity and reached a peak in the Georgian and Victorian eras; today they appear as brooches, pendants and rings.
Frequently asked questions
- How can you tell if a cameo is real shell or plastic?
- A genuine shell cameo feels cool to the touch and is slightly translucent when held to the light. You can also look at the back: real shell has a natural curve and slight irregularity, while moulded plastic or glass cameos tend to have a perfectly flat back and a seam line. A pin can help too, since the tip will not melt real shell but will leave a slight mark on plastic.
- What is the difference between a cameo and an intaglio?
- A cameo carves the design in raised relief so it stands above the surface, while an intaglio cuts the design below the surface in reverse. Intaglios were traditionally used for seals pressed into wax, so the impression comes out raised.
- Are cameos worth anything?
- Value depends on the material, the quality of the carving, the subject and the age. A finely carved antique agate or hardstone cameo can be worth a significant sum, while a moulded plastic cameo made in the 20th century is mainly decorative. Shell cameos sit in the middle: handcarved Victorian examples are collectible, while mass-produced ones are modest in value.
Designing a ring
Talk through cameo with us
Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.
Contact the studio