What is an intaglio in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
An intaglio is a design carved down into the surface of a gemstone or hardstone, so the image sits below the surrounding level rather than raised above it. Historically, intaglios were used as personal seals: the ring was pressed into soft wax to leave an impression bearing the owner's name, crest or symbol, and this wax seal authenticated documents and correspondence. The technique was central to ancient Greek, Roman and Renaissance jewellery, and today intaglio rings and pendants are collected as antiques and made by specialist gem engravers.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between an intaglio and a cameo?
- They are opposite techniques. In an intaglio the design is carved below the surface of the stone, so it reads as a recessed image. In a cameo the image is carved in relief, raised above a background of a different colour. Both are carved from layered stones or shell, but they create entirely different visual effects.
- What stones are used for intaglio carving?
- Traditionally hard, fine-grained stones like carnelian, onyx, sardonyx and rock crystal were favoured because they carve cleanly and hold detail. Garnet and amethyst were also used, and glass or paste intaglios were made as more affordable alternatives to genuine carved gems.
- Are antique intaglio rings still worn today?
- Yes, antique intaglios are worn and collected as jewellery, often set in new rings or pendants. Georgian and Victorian intaglio rings are particularly sought after, and wearing an ancient carved gem in a modern setting is a practice with its own long history.
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