What is fretwork in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Fretwork in jewellery is an ornamental technique where sections of a metal sheet are cut away using a jeweller's piercing saw, leaving behind an intricate open pattern. The jeweller draws the design, drills small entry holes for the saw blade, and then cuts along each line, working around curves and corners until the negative spaces are removed. The result is a delicate, lace-like structure that is lighter than solid metal and lets light pass through, and it has been used in everything from pendants and brooches to ring shanks and watch cases.
Frequently asked questions
- Is fretwork the same as filigree?
- They are related but different. Fretwork involves cutting shapes out of a solid sheet of metal, while filigree is built up from fine twisted wire that is soldered together. Both produce open, decorative patterns, but fretwork starts by removing material and filigree starts by adding it.
- How is fretwork done on metal jewellery?
- A jeweller marks the design on the metal, drills starter holes within each area to be removed, threads a fine saw blade through each hole, and cuts out the shapes by hand. Finishing involves filing and sanding the edges smooth.
- What metals are used for fretwork jewellery?
- Gold and silver are most common in fine jewellery, though copper and brass are also used. The metal needs to be workable enough for a saw blade and thin enough to cut without too much resistance.
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