What is jet in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Jet is a dense, black variety of lignite, essentially a fossilised wood formed from ancient trees compressed over millions of years, and it polishes to a brilliant, lasting gloss that glass cannot quite replicate. It is light and warm to the touch, which distinguishes it from heavier glass imitations. Jet reached its greatest popularity in 19th-century Britain as a centrepiece of Victorian mourning jewellery, particularly jet from Whitby in Yorkshire, and it was fashionable following the death of Prince Albert in 1861 when Queen Victoria adopted it for her own mourning dress.
Frequently asked questions
- What is French jet and is it the same as real jet?
- French jet is black glass, not genuine jet. Despite the name, most of it came from Bohemia rather than France, and it was made as a cheaper substitute for genuine Whitby jet. Real jet is warm and lighter, retains its polish for a very long time, and shows the grain of the original fossilised wood if you look closely. Glass jet is colder, heavier and more prone to scratching and dulling.
- How do I know if jet jewellery is genuine?
- Real jet is noticeably lighter than glass for its size, warm to the touch, and has a slightly waxy, not shiny-cold feel. If you rub a piece gently on unglazed porcelain, genuine jet leaves a brown streak rather than a black or no streak. It will also not shatter easily, while glass jet chips and cracks more readily.
- Is Whitby jet valuable?
- Good-quality antique Whitby jet pieces in intact condition, particularly carved mourning pieces from the Victorian era, are genuinely collectible and can achieve strong prices. Modern Whitby jet, carved by craftspeople still working in the Yorkshire tradition, is also valued and sought after as a regional speciality.
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