What is a collet in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
A collet is a band or collar of metal formed into a ring or cup that wraps around the edge of a gemstone to hold it in place. It is one of the oldest ways of securing a stone, and it sits at the core of many setting styles. A round tube collet works much like a bezel, gripping the stone around its widest point. The terms are sometimes used interchangeably, though collet tends to appear more in descriptions of antique and historical jewellery.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between a collet and a bezel setting?
- They are closely related and the words are often used to mean the same thing. Strictly, a collet is the band of metal itself that encircles the stone, while bezel setting describes the finished technique. In antique jewellery especially, collet is the preferred term.
- Is a collet setting secure?
- Yes, collets are very secure because the metal wraps all the way around the stone rather than gripping it at points like claws do. They also protect the girdle of the stone from knocks, which makes them a practical choice for everyday pieces.
- What stones suit a collet setting?
- Collets work well with round and oval stones, and they suit transparent gems like diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The closed, neat look is particularly popular in solitaire rings and antique or vintage-inspired designs.
Designing a ring
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