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What is coral in jewellery?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

Coral used in jewellery is the hard skeletal material secreted by colonies of tiny marine polyps. It is calcium carbonate and the most prized colours are warm reds and oranges, though pink, white and black coral also appear. It has been fashionable for centuries, particularly in Mediterranean cultures, and was popular in Victorian England where it was carved into cameos and beads. Many coral species are now protected, so buying from reputable, ethically sourced or vintage sources matters.

Frequently asked questions

Is coral jewellery ethical to buy?
It depends on the source. Many species of coral are protected and cannot be legally traded, so new coral jewellery is heavily regulated. Antique and vintage coral pieces from before modern restrictions are legal to own and trade, and some responsibly managed sources still exist. Always ask about provenance.
What colour is coral in jewellery?
The most sought-after colour is a rich orange-red, sometimes called oxblood or deep red coral. Pale pink or angel-skin coral is also very prized, particularly in fine and antique jewellery, while white and black coral are used in more informal pieces.
How do you care for coral jewellery?
Coral is organic and relatively soft, so it scratches and chips more easily than gemstones. Keep it away from perfume, acids, heat and prolonged sunlight, which can bleach and dry it out. Wipe gently with a soft damp cloth and avoid ultrasonic cleaners.

Designing a ring

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Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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