What is enamel in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Enamel in jewellery is coloured glass powder that is applied to metal and then fired at high temperature, fusing the glass permanently to the surface to create a smooth, glassy, intensely coloured decoration. The powdered glass blends silica, fluxes and mineral oxides, and different oxides produce different colours. It has been used for thousands of years and spans techniques from the opaque richness of cloisonné to the translucent beauty of plique-à-jour, where light shines through the enamel like stained glass. Cold enamel is an epoxy resin alternative that looks similar but is not kiln-fired and is less hard-wearing.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the main types of enamel in jewellery?
- Cloisonné uses thin metal wires to create compartments that are filled with different coloured enamels. Champlevé carves or casts recesses into the metal and fills them. Plique-à-jour has no metal backing so light passes through the enamel like a tiny stained glass window. Guilloché applies enamel over a machine-engraved metal surface so the pattern shows through.
- Is enamel jewellery durable?
- Traditional fired enamel is glass, so it is hard and colour-stable but can chip if knocked sharply or dropped on a hard surface. Keep enamelled pieces away from ultrasonic cleaners and sharp impacts, and store them separately so they cannot be scratched by harder materials.
- What is the difference between enamel and cold enamel?
- Traditional enamel is glass powder fired onto metal at high temperature and bonds permanently. Cold enamel is an epoxy resin that hardens at room temperature without firing; it is easier to apply and available in more colours, but it is softer, can yellow over time, and is generally considered less archival.
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