How is plique-à-jour different from cloisonné?

In cloisonné, the enamel cells sit on a solid metal base, so the piece is opaque. In plique-à-jour the backing is removed after firing, leaving only the enamel suspended in its wire framework and allowing light to pass through it.

Is plique-à-jour fragile?

Yes, because the enamel has no backing it is more vulnerable than other enamel work. Antique plique-à-jour pieces should be handled carefully, kept away from hard knocks, and stored where they will not press against other jewellery.

Which period is most associated with plique-à-jour jewellery?

Art Nouveau, roughly the 1890s to 1910s, is the era most closely linked with this technique. Jewellers like René Lalique and the Fabergé workshops used it extensively, often imitating the delicate colours of butterfly wings and dragonflies.

What Is Plique-à-Jour? Stained Glass Enamel

#01
Cloisonné
Cloisonné is an enamelling technique in which thin strips or wires of metal are bent into shapes and soldered or glued onto a metal base, creating small enclosed cells called cloisons, from the French for partitions.
#02
Champlevé
Champlevé is an enamelling technique in which the metalsmith cuts, etches or routes shallow recesses directly into the surface of the metal, then fills those cavities with coloured enamel, which is fired and polished flush with the metal surface.
#03
Enamel
Enamel in jewellery is coloured glass powder that is applied to metal and then fired at high temperature, fusing the glass permanently to the surface to create a smooth, glassy, intensely coloured decoration.
#04
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau jewellery emerged in the 1890s and continued through to around 1910, marking the transition from the heavier decorative styles of the Victorian era toward something more fluid and expressive.

Frequently asked questions

How is plique-à-jour different from cloisonné?: In cloisonné, the enamel cells sit on a solid metal base, so the piece is opaque. In plique-à-jour the backing is removed after firing, leaving only the enamel suspended in its wire framework and allowing light to pass through it.
Is plique-à-jour fragile?: Yes, because the enamel has no backing it is more vulnerable than other enamel work. Antique plique-à-jour pieces should be handled carefully, kept away from hard knocks, and stored where they will not press against other jewellery.
Which period is most associated with plique-à-jour jewellery?: Art Nouveau, roughly the 1890s to 1910s, is the era most closely linked with this technique. Jewellers like René Lalique and the Fabergé workshops used it extensively, often imitating the delicate colours of butterfly wings and dragonflies.

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Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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Related terms

Cloisonné

Champlevé

Enamel

Art Nouveau

Frequently asked questions

Talk through plique-à-jour with us