What is an invisible setting in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
An invisible setting is a highly technical way of mounting gemstones so they sit perfectly flush against one another with no metal visible between them, creating an unbroken surface of stone. Each stone is cut with a groove on its underside that locks onto a hidden metal rail in the setting, holding it without any prongs or bezel walls showing from above. The technique is associated with Van Cleef and Arpels, who refined and patented it in 1933, and it is most commonly used with calibrated square princess cut diamonds or rubies and sapphires.
Frequently asked questions
- What makes an invisible setting so difficult to make?
- Each stone must be cut to precisely the same size and grooved to fit onto the metal rails, and the slightest variation causes gaps or prevents stones from seating properly. The setting process itself is painstaking and time-consuming, which is why invisible-set pieces are typically expensive and associated with high jewellery houses.
- Can stones fall out of an invisible setting?
- The setting is secure when new, but the grooves in the stones and rails can wear over time, and an invisible setting is not as easy to repair as a prong setting. It pays to have pieces inspected periodically so any loosening is caught before a stone is lost.
- Which gemstones work in an invisible setting?
- The setting works best with calibrated square stones, most often princess cut diamonds or faceted coloured stones like ruby and sapphire. The stones need to be very uniform in size and cut to the specific groove profile, so it is not suitable for mixed shapes or freeform gem cuts.
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