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What is a princess cut diamond?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

The princess cut is a square or slightly rectangular diamond cut with brilliant-style faceting on its lower half, meaning it delivers exceptional sparkle in a geometric, modern shape. Viewed from the top it shows clean, sharp corners, and from the side it resembles an inverted pyramid with a pointed base. It was developed in the 1960s and became enormously popular for engagement rings, second only to the round brilliant. A key practical note is that its sharp corners are vulnerable to chipping, so a setting that protects the points is important.

Frequently asked questions

Is a princess cut diamond cheaper than a round brilliant?
Generally yes. The princess cut retains more of the rough diamond during cutting, so less material is wasted, and cutters can charge a lower premium. You can usually get a larger princess cut for the same budget as a round of the same price.
What is the difference between a princess cut and an Asscher cut?
Both are square cuts, but the Asscher has step-cut facets that create a hall-of-mirrors reflection and a more vintage feel, while the princess cut has brilliant facets that maximise fire and sparkle. The Asscher also has trimmed corners, making it more of an octagon.
Does a princess cut show colour more than a round diamond?
Yes, the princess cut tends to show colour more readily than a round brilliant because of how its facets reflect light, particularly in the corners. Many buyers choose one colour grade higher for a princess cut than they would for a round.

Designing a ring

Talk through princess cut with us

Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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