Princess Cut Diamond

The princess cut is a square (or occasionally slightly rectangular) brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, uncut corners. It typically has 57 or 76 facets, depending on the cutting style. The princess cut's brilliant faceting pattern — similar in principle to a round brilliant but adapted for a square shape — gives it significantly more sparkle than other square shapes like the Asscher or emerald cut. It is the second most popular shape for engagement rings after the round brilliant. The princess cut also retains more of the original rough diamond during cutting than a round brilliant, which contributes to its lower per-carat price.

The princess cut was developed in the 1960s and refined through the 1970s and 1980s by several diamond cutters working independently. It emerged from the desire to create a square shape with the brilliance of a round. The Quadrillion cut (1971) and the Profile cut (1961) were early square brilliants that influenced the modern princess cut. By the 1990s, the princess cut had become firmly established as the second most popular engagement ring shape, a position it has held ever since. Its clean, contemporary geometry has made it particularly popular in modern, minimalist ring designs.

Protecting the corners is the top priority with princess cuts — ensure the setting has V-prongs or a bezel on each corner. Look for a square outline (length-to-width ratio 1.00-1.03) unless you specifically want a rectangular shape. Prioritise symmetry and ensure the four sides are equal. Because princess cuts can show colour in the corners, consider H colour or better. Clarity of VS2 is usually sufficient for an eye-clean stone. Lab-grown princess cuts are an excellent value proposition, offering the same sparkle and geometry at a lower price.

The princess cut looks stunning in a four-prong solitaire with V-prongs protecting each corner. Channel settings, where princess cuts are set side-by-side in a band, are a signature look for this shape. Halo settings add presence and protect the corners simultaneously. For a modern look, a tension or bezel setting showcases the geometric lines. Three-stone settings with tapered baguettes or smaller princess cuts create a bold, architectural design.

The princess cut is the go-to for buyers who want modern geometry with maximum sparkle. It appeals to those with contemporary taste who find the round brilliant too traditional and the emerald cut not sparkly enough.