Marquise Cut Diamond
The marquise cut is a striking, elongated shape with pointed ends that creates one of the most dramatic and finger-flattering diamond silhouettes. With its royal origins and ability to maximise carat weight, the marquise offers exceptional visual impact.
Quick Facts
Facets
56 to 58 facets in a modified brilliant pattern
Length-to-Width Ratio
1.75 to 2.25 is the standard range. 1.85 to 2.00 is considered the classic, most balanced proportion. Lower ratios appear stubbier, while higher ratios create a very elongated, slender look.
Brilliance
Very good — comparable to oval and pear cuts. Well-cut marquise diamonds display excellent sparkle, though some may show a bow-tie effect similar to ovals.
Best For
Maximising perceived size, creating a dramatic statement, elongating the appearance of the finger, and vintage-inspired designs.
What is a Marquise Cut Diamond?
The marquise cut, also known as the navette cut (from the French word for "little ship"), is a modified brilliant cut with an elongated body and pointed ends. It typically has 56 to 58 facets and produces excellent brilliance. The marquise's most distinctive advantage is that its elongated shape has the largest crown surface area of any diamond shape relative to its carat weight, meaning a marquise diamond appears significantly larger than other shapes of the same weight. A 1-carat marquise can look comparable to a 1.5-carat round diamond in terms of visual presence.
History
Legend has it that King Louis XV of France commissioned the first marquise cut in the 18th century, requesting a diamond shape that resembled the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape became associated with French aristocracy and courtly elegance. The marquise experienced peak popularity in the 1970s and 1980s and has recently seen a revival as vintage-inspired shapes have returned to fashion. Modern cutting techniques have significantly improved the marquise's light performance compared to earlier versions.
Pros & Cons
Pros
Cons
Buying Tips
Symmetry is the single most important factor when buying a marquise diamond. The two pointed ends must mirror each other perfectly, and the two curved sides must be identical. Even a slight misalignment is visible and detracts from the beauty. Check for bow-tie effect through imagery or in person. Protect the pointed ends with V-prong tips or a partial bezel. A length-to-width ratio of 1.85-2.00 gives the most balanced appearance. Lab-grown marquise diamonds offer the same dramatic look at a more accessible price.
Recommended Settings
The marquise is stunning as a solitaire, where its dramatic shape takes centre stage. V-prong tips are essential to protect the pointed ends. East-west settings, where the marquise sits horizontally across the finger, offer a bold, contemporary twist. A halo setting emphasises the shape's curves. Three-stone settings with round or pear side stones complement the marquise beautifully. The marquise is also increasingly popular in toi et moi (two-stone) ring designs.
Who is the Marquise For?
The marquise appeals to buyers who want maximum visual impact and a shape that stands out. It suits those with an appreciation for history and romance, as well as budget-conscious buyers who want the largest possible face-up appearance.
Other Diamond Shapes
Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
57 or 58 facets in a symmetrical circular outline
Oval Cut Diamond
56 to 58 facets in a modified brilliant pattern
Emerald Cut Diamond
57 facets in a step-cut pattern with cropped corners
Cushion Cut Diamond
58 facets
Pear Shaped Diamond
56 to 58 facets in a modified brilliant pattern
Princess Cut Diamond
57 or 76 facets in a brilliant-cut pattern within a square outline
Radiant Cut Diamond
70 facets in a brilliant-cut pattern within a rectangular outline with cropped corners