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Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut is a striking, elongated shape with pointed ends that creates one of the most dramatic and finger-flattering diamond silhouettes. With its royal origins and ability to maximise carat weight, the marquise offers exceptional visual impact.

Quick Facts

Facets

56 to 58 facets in a modified brilliant pattern

Length-to-Width Ratio

1.75 to 2.25 is the standard range. 1.85 to 2.00 is considered the classic, most balanced proportion. Lower ratios appear stubbier, while higher ratios create a very elongated, slender look.

Brilliance

Very good — comparable to oval and pear cuts. Well-cut marquise diamonds display excellent sparkle, though some may show a bow-tie effect similar to ovals.

Best For

Maximising perceived size, creating a dramatic statement, elongating the appearance of the finger, and vintage-inspired designs.

What is a Marquise Cut Diamond?

The marquise cut, also known as the navette cut (from the French word for "little ship"), is a modified brilliant cut with an elongated body and pointed ends. It typically has 56 to 58 facets and produces excellent brilliance. The marquise's most distinctive advantage is that its elongated shape has the largest crown surface area of any diamond shape relative to its carat weight, meaning a marquise diamond appears significantly larger than other shapes of the same weight. A 1-carat marquise can look comparable to a 1.5-carat round diamond in terms of visual presence.

History

Legend has it that King Louis XV of France commissioned the first marquise cut in the 18th century, requesting a diamond shape that resembled the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape became associated with French aristocracy and courtly elegance. The marquise experienced peak popularity in the 1970s and 1980s and has recently seen a revival as vintage-inspired shapes have returned to fashion. Modern cutting techniques have significantly improved the marquise's light performance compared to earlier versions.

Pros & Cons

Pros

Appears the largest of any shape per carat weight — exceptional visual bang for your budget
Creates a dramatically elongated, finger-flattering silhouette
Unique and distinctive — stands out from more common shapes
Excellent brilliance when well-cut
Often significantly less expensive per carat than round brilliants

Cons

The pointed ends are vulnerable to chipping and require protective settings (V-prongs or bezel)
Can display a bow-tie effect — a dark shadow across the centre
Symmetry is critical — even slight asymmetry is very visible in this shape
Less popular than other shapes, which some see as a pro (unique) and others as a con (resale)

Buying Tips

Symmetry is the single most important factor when buying a marquise diamond. The two pointed ends must mirror each other perfectly, and the two curved sides must be identical. Even a slight misalignment is visible and detracts from the beauty. Check for bow-tie effect through imagery or in person. Protect the pointed ends with V-prong tips or a partial bezel. A length-to-width ratio of 1.85-2.00 gives the most balanced appearance. Lab-grown marquise diamonds offer the same dramatic look at a more accessible price.

Recommended Settings

The marquise is stunning as a solitaire, where its dramatic shape takes centre stage. V-prong tips are essential to protect the pointed ends. East-west settings, where the marquise sits horizontally across the finger, offer a bold, contemporary twist. A halo setting emphasises the shape's curves. Three-stone settings with round or pear side stones complement the marquise beautifully. The marquise is also increasingly popular in toi et moi (two-stone) ring designs.

The marquise appeals to buyers who want maximum visual impact and a shape that stands out. It suits those with an appreciation for history and romance, as well as budget-conscious buyers who want the largest possible face-up appearance.