Oval Cut Diamond

The oval cut is a modified brilliant cut, meaning it uses the same faceting principles as a round brilliant but in an elongated shape. It was created by Lazare Kaplan in 1957 and typically features 56 to 58 facets. The oval's elongated shape makes fingers appear longer and more slender, which is a major part of its appeal. When well-cut, an oval diamond can appear up to 10% larger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight due to its larger face-up surface area.

Lazare Kaplan, a renowned Russian-born diamond cutter, invented the modern oval cut in 1957. Kaplan was already famous for his expertise in cleaving large, difficult diamonds and was inducted into the Jewelers International Hall of Fame. The oval cut gained mainstream popularity in the 2010s and has become particularly fashionable on social media, favoured by celebrities and influencers. Its modern resurgence is partly driven by the desire for shapes that look larger per carat while still offering brilliant-cut sparkle.

The most important thing when buying an oval diamond is to see the stone (or high-quality imagery) to assess the bow-tie effect. A slight bow-tie is normal and acceptable, but a strong, dark bow-tie significantly reduces beauty. Look for stones with a length-to-width ratio between 1.35 and 1.50 for a classic look. Prioritise symmetry — the two halves should mirror each other perfectly. With lab-grown ovals, you can often achieve a much larger carat weight for the same budget.

Oval diamonds look stunning in solitaire settings with a thin band that emphasises the stone's shape. A hidden halo adds sparkle without visually altering the shape. East-west settings, where the oval sits horizontally, offer a contemporary alternative. Three-stone settings with pear-shaped side stones complement the oval's curves beautifully. Bezel settings provide a sleek, modern frame.

The oval has become the most popular non-round shape for engagement rings, particularly among buyers aged 25-35. It appeals to those who want maximum visual impact for their budget and a shape that feels both modern and elegant.