What is shagreen in jewellery and decorative arts?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Shagreen is the rough, granular skin of rays and sharks, historically prepared and used as a covering material for small luxury objects including jewellery boxes, étuis, handles and accessories. The natural surface is covered with tiny calcified nodules called placoid scales, which give it its characteristic pebbly texture. Shagreen was particularly fashionable in eighteenth-century France and again during the Art Deco period, when it was often dyed green, black or cream to cover elegant boxes, frames and desk accessories. Faux shagreen, made from embossed leather or synthetic materials, is common in contemporary pieces.
Frequently asked questions
- What animal does shagreen come from?
- Shagreen comes from the skin of rays and sharks, most traditionally from the stingray. The skin is dried and the natural calcified scales are left in place or sometimes sanded to reveal the denser structure beneath, producing a smooth-surfaced material with visible rounded spots.
- Why was shagreen popular in Art Deco design?
- Art Deco designers were drawn to unusual materials and exotic textures, and shagreen offered a naturally geometric surface that fitted the period's aesthetic perfectly. The French designer Jean-Michel Frank was particularly associated with shagreen-covered furniture and objects in the 1920s and 30s.
- Is shagreen used in modern jewellery?
- Genuine ray skin shagreen appears occasionally in specialist and artisan jewellery, particularly in box clasps, purse frames and decorative inlay work. Faux shagreen made from embossed leather or synthetic materials is far more common in contemporary accessories and jewellery packaging.
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