Bezel Setting

A bezel setting uses a metal collar shaped to match the centre stone, so the collar wraps the girdle of the diamond and a small lip of metal is pressed over the stone's edge to lock it in place. A full bezel surrounds the entire stone, while a partial or half bezel covers only two sides and leaves the top and bottom of the girdle open for more light. Either way the result is a smooth, continuous surface, with nothing sticking up to catch on clothing or skin.

The jeweller fabricates a metal wall that matches the exact shape and dimensions of the diamond, then seats the stone inside the collar and hammers or burnishes the top edge of the metal over the diamond's girdle. The pressure has to be judged carefully, tight enough to hold the stone and gentle enough not to stress it. Most bezels in engagement rings are made in 18k white gold, platinum, 18k yellow gold or 18k rose gold, and platinum holds a fine bezel especially well because of its strength.

Round brilliant diamonds are the most common, because the circular rim suits the circular stone, while an oval bezel reads elegant and modern and an emerald cut bezel feels more architectural. The rim is especially useful for marquise and pear diamonds, since it protects the pointed tips better than prongs do.

A full bezel encircles the entire stone, while a partial or half bezel covers only two sides and leaves the top and bottom of the girdle open for more light. A rubover bezel uses a slightly thicker rim for a more substantial frame, and a floating bezel raises the stone above the band on a small pedestal. A thin bezel goes the other way, using as little metal as possible for a barely-there outline that keeps as much of the stone visible as it can.

A bezel is the setting we recommend most often for an active lifestyle, and healthcare workers, athletes, tradies and parents of young children all tend to appreciate the smooth, snag-free profile. It also suits anyone who would rather keep the ring on all the time without thinking about catching it, so if your partner is hands-on and practical, a bezel sits well.

A bezel usually costs 10 to 20 per cent more than the equivalent prong setting, because the metal collar is custom-fabricated to the exact dimensions of the diamond. The extra labour is offset over time by lower maintenance, since there are no prongs to retighten and no claws to repair, and a lab-grown diamond in a bezel setting combines value and durability well.