What are the cons of a bezel setting?
Quick answer
A bezel blocks side light from entering the diamond, so a poorly cut stone can look a little less brilliant than the same stone in prongs. The rim hides the side profile of the stone, which matters more on fancy cuts like emerald or oval. Dirt also collects behind the bezel, so the ring needs a regular clean to keep it looking its best.
Practical cons beyond sparkle
The continuous metal rim hides the side profile of the diamond, which matters more on cuts where the side view is part of the design, like emerald, asscher and elongated oval. Hand cream, soap and skin oils collect in the small gap behind the rim and need a soft toothbrush and warm water every couple of weeks to clear. The rim itself also shows surface wear before any other part of the ring, since it is the first contact point with countertops and door frames. A polish every few years brings it back, but the rim never stays as crisp as the day it was set.
Less flexibility to modify later
Swapping the centre stone in a bezel means cutting off the rim and refitting a new one to the exact dimensions of the replacement diamond, which is more work than swapping a stone between prongs. Upgrading to a larger centre years later usually means a new head built from scratch, since stretching the rim is rarely viable. Prong settings are easier to alter without rebuilding the head. If you are likely to want a bigger stone for a milestone anniversary, a six-prong solitaire keeps that option simpler than a bezel does.
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