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What is a fancy cut diamond?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

A fancy cut is any diamond shape other than the standard round brilliant, which is considered the classic. The category covers a wide range of shapes, including oval, pear, marquise, cushion, emerald, princess, radiant, Asscher and heart, each with its own facet arrangement and character. Fancy cuts can appear larger face-up than round diamonds of the same carat weight, and some shapes, like the oval and marquise, have a flattering elongating effect on the finger. They are also often priced a little lower than an equivalent round stone.

Frequently asked questions

What are the most popular fancy cut diamond shapes?
Oval is currently one of the most sought-after, followed closely by pear, cushion and emerald cut. Princess was dominant for many years and is still very popular. Each shape has a different feel, from the romantic softness of oval to the architectural lines of emerald.
Do fancy cut diamonds sparkle less than round brilliants?
A round brilliant is optimised for maximum sparkle and typically outperforms fancy cuts on fire and brilliance. That said, a well-cut oval or cushion can be extremely bright, and shapes like the emerald cut offer a different, glassier kind of beauty rather than less sparkle.
Are fancy cut diamonds cheaper than round?
Generally yes, because less rough diamond is lost in cutting non-round shapes and market demand for rounds is highest. The saving varies by shape and quality, but it can be meaningful for a given carat weight.

Designing a ring

Talk through fancy cut with us

Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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