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What is a seed pearl?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

Seed pearls are very small natural pearls, usually under two millimetres in diameter and sometimes as tiny as one millimetre, that were harvested from freshwater mussels and saltwater oysters. Their small size made them perfect for delicate applications: set in rows as accents around larger stones in gold jewellery, woven into fringed necklaces and brooches, or stitched to hairpieces and clothing. They were enormously popular in Victorian and Edwardian jewellery, and fine pieces from those periods often feature intricate seed pearl work that required extraordinary patience to create.

Frequently asked questions

Are seed pearls real pearls?
Yes, seed pearls are natural pearls formed in the same way as larger ones, just very small. They were harvested rather than cultured, and truly tiny natural seed pearls are less available now than in the nineteenth century, making intact antique seed pearl jewellery genuinely collectable.
How can you tell if seed pearls are real?
Rub a suspected seed pearl gently against your tooth. Real pearl, even tiny, will feel slightly gritty or rough because of the layered nacre structure, while glass or plastic imitations feel smooth and slippery. The very small size of seed pearls can make this test tricky, but it still works.
How do you care for seed pearl jewellery?
Seed pearl pieces are delicate and need gentle handling. Wipe them with a soft damp cloth and avoid soaking or chemicals, which can damage the nacre and weaken the thread or glue holding them. Have antique woven seed pearl pieces re-strung periodically, as the original threads deteriorate over time.

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Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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