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What is a custom cut gemstone?

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026

Definition

A custom cut gemstone is shaped and faceted by a skilled lapidary to a specific brief, rather than cut to a standard commercial shape and proportion. A jeweller might commission one to match an unusual setting, maximise the colour and yield from a particular piece of rough, or achieve a proprietary shape that does not exist in standard sizes. Custom cutting is more common in coloured stones than in diamonds, and requires both technical skill and an understanding of how light behaves in the specific material.

Frequently asked questions

What is a lapidary?
A lapidary is a craftsperson who cuts, shapes and polishes gemstones. The term covers everything from cutting standard commercial shapes on precision machinery through to hand-faceting unusual or artistic cuts on smaller equipment. A skilled lapidary can work from a specific design brief or use their judgment to bring out the best in an unusual piece of rough.
Why would you need a custom cut stone?
The most practical reasons are to fit an unusual or vintage setting, to work with a rough stone of an awkward shape or inclusion pattern, or to create a shape that does not exist in standard commercial sizes. Some collectors and jewellers also commission custom cuts for purely artistic reasons, choosing facet arrangements that are rare or entirely original.
How much does a custom cut cost?
It depends on the stone, the complexity of the cut and the lapidary's time. Simple recuts of existing stones can be relatively modest, while a fully original artistic cut on a fine stone can add significant cost. The lapidary's time is usually charged per hour, and intricate custom work takes longer than a standard commercial cut.

Designing a ring

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Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.

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