What is a former in jewellery making?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
A former is a hardened steel tool used to support or shape metal while it is being hammered or bent. The metal is placed over or around the former and struck against its surface so it takes on the tool's profile. Formers come in many shapes, including conical ring formers for shaping shanks, dome punches for dapping, and bracelet mandrels for bangle work. The term is largely interchangeable with mandrel, with former being the more common word in British and Australian workshops.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the difference between a former and a mandrel?
- They are essentially the same thing, used interchangeably in most contexts. Mandrel is the more widely used international term, while former tends to be heard in British and Australian jewellery workshops. Both refer to a hardened form over which metal is shaped by hammering.
- What materials are formers made from?
- Hardened steel is by far the most common, because it is tough enough to withstand repeated hammer blows without deforming. Wooden and nylon formers are used where a softer surface is needed to avoid marring the metal being shaped.
- When would a jeweller use a former?
- Any time a consistent curved or profiled shape is needed. Ring formers are used when shaping a plain band or sizing a ring; bracelet mandrels when forming a bangle; dapping blocks and punches when raising a domed form in sheet metal.
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