What does gauge mean in jewellery?
By Jared James · Last updated 21 May 2026
Definition
Gauge is the standard unit of measure used for the thickness of metal sheet and wire in jewellery making. Higher gauge numbers mean thinner metal, so 20-gauge wire is finer than 14-gauge. In piercing jewellery, gauge refers to the diameter of the post, needle or ring that passes through the skin, with 20g being a fine nostril size and 16g or 14g being common for cartilage and lobe piercings. Getting the gauge right is important because using too thin a post in a stretched piercing or too thick one in a fresh one causes problems.
Frequently asked questions
- What gauge is a standard ear piercing?
- Most standard lobe piercings are done at 20g or 18g, and most studs and sleeper earrings are made to fit these sizes. Cartilage and helix piercings are often 16g, and larger gauge piercings are used for stretched lobes.
- Does a higher gauge number mean thicker or thinner?
- Thinner. In the gauge system used for metal and jewellery wire, the number goes up as the thickness goes down, so 24g wire is finer and more delicate than 18g wire.
- What gauge wire do jewellers use most often?
- It depends on the application. Fine detail work and wrapping often uses 26g to 28g, while ring shanks and structural elements might call for 18g to 20g sheet or wire. Jump rings and chain links vary widely depending on the piece.
Designing a ring
Talk through gauge with us
Tell us what you have in mind, even if it is only a budget and a piece of jewellery type, and we will help you weigh up the options. We reply to every enquiry, usually within one business day.
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