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LILY DIA
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Buying Guide

How to Choose Your Own Lab-Grown Diamond for a Custom Engagement Ring

Choose the shape and setting first, then compare stones by measurements, video and a verifiable report. What to check, from 5,265 live IGI stones on 17 September 2026.

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James · Last updated 17 September 2026

How do you choose your own lab-grown diamond for a custom engagement ring?

Choose the shape and setting style first, then compare stones by their measurements, video and grading report rather than by carat weight alone. Check that the report can be verified online, that the cut or outline suits the setting, and that your jeweller will make the setting to that stone's exact measurements.

  1. Pick the shape and setting style. The setting decides what size and outline of stone works, and how much of the budget is left for the diamond.
  2. Set colour and clarity limits. For most lab-grown diamonds, D to F colour and VS1 clarity or better look colourless and clean to the eye.
  3. Compare millimetres, not just carats. Face-up size is what people see on the hand.
  4. Check the cut or the ratio. Rounds have a cut grade. Other shapes are judged on their outline and a video.
  5. Watch a video of the actual stone. It shows what the report cannot, such as dark areas or a bow tie.
  6. Verify the report. Look up the report number with the lab and match it to the inscription on the stone.

Should you choose the setting or the diamond first?

Choose the shape first, then the setting, then the diamond. Most custom rings are made around the stone, so the setting's claws or bezel are sized to the diamond's measurements, but the design you want limits which stones suit it. A bezel or east-west setting, a toi et moi with two stones, or a large stone in a thin band all narrow the choice.

The setting also takes a real share of the budget. In a simple 14k gold four-claw solitaire with us, the setting is $1,260, while the median round lab-grown diamond of 1.00 to 1.09 carats on our feed is $1,242. Knowing the setting cost first tells you what is left for the stone.

What should you check on a lab-grown diamond before you buy it?

CheckWhat to look forWhy it matters
Grading reportAn IGI or GIA report number you can look up online, matching the inscription on the stoneConfirms the stone is lab-grown and is the one described
MeasurementsLength, width and depth in millimetres, not just carat weightTwo stones of the same weight can face up at different sizes, and the setting is made to these measurements
Cut gradeIdeal or Excellent on a round brilliantCut decides how much a round stone sparkles. Fancy shapes usually have no cut grade
Length to width ratioA ratio that gives the outline you like on an oval, pear, marquise, emerald, radiant or cushionThe same carat weight can look long and slim or short and wide
Colour and clarityD to F colour and VS1 or better covers most lab-grown stonesAbove these grades, differences are hard to see and the price rises
VideoA 360 degree video of that exact stone, not a stock imageShows dark patches, a bow tie or inclusions that the report cannot
Growth and treatmentThe report comments, which can note the growth method and any treatmentSome lab-grown diamonds are treated after growth, and a report that notes it tells you what you are buying

IGI says its lab-grown diamond reports can note the growth process and the presence of treatments in the comments section. Our guide to IGI vs GIA reports explains how to read and verify each one.

Why is carat weight not enough to compare diamonds?

Because carat is weight, not size. A stone cut deep carries more of its weight below the surface, so it looks smaller from above. These are the 527 stones between 1.00 and 1.09 carats on our live feed of 5,265 lab-grown diamonds on 17 September 2026:

ShapeStonesSize at 1.00 to 1.09 carats
Round656.32 to 6.73mm across
Oval667.70 to 8.81mm long, 5.41 to 6.01mm wide
Emerald775.99 to 7.71mm long, 4.50 to 5.65mm wide
Pear798.03 to 10.04mm long, 5.24 to 5.89mm wide
Marquise629.56 to 11.18mm long, 5.04 to 5.70mm wide
Princess705.10 to 5.90mm across
Radiant645.63 to 7.87mm long, 4.45 to 5.30mm wide
Cushion445.66 to 7.51mm long, 4.77 to 6.21mm wide

At the same weight, the longest oval was 1.1mm longer than the shortest, and the longest pear was 2.0mm longer. Ask for the measurements of every stone you are considering, and compare them to the setting you have chosen.

Which length to width ratio should you choose?

It depends on the look you want. A higher ratio gives a longer, slimmer stone, and a lower one gives a shorter, wider stone. The ratio is length divided by width, and most stones on our feed sit in these ranges:

ShapeMost stones (middle 80%)Median
Oval1.38 to 1.521.42
Pear1.52 to 1.691.59
Marquise1.88 to 2.111.99
Emerald1.38 to 1.571.45
Radiant1.35 to 1.531.43
Cushion1.01 to 1.411.20

Cushions vary the most because they are cut both square and elongated. If you are choosing an elongated cushion, set a minimum ratio so square stones are left out. Our oval cut buying guide covers ratio and the bow tie in more detail.

Does cut grade matter for a lab-grown diamond?

For round brilliants, yes. GIA's cut scale applies to standard round brilliants in the D to Z colour range, and cut is what gives a round stone its brightness and sparkle. On our feed, 522 of the 704 round stones were graded Ideal and 182 Excellent by IGI.

Other shapes usually have no cut grade. Only 3 of the 4,561 fancy-shaped stones on our feed carried one. For ovals, pears, marquises, emeralds, radiants, cushions and princesses, judge the cut from a video: look for even sparkle across the stone, and for a dark bow tie across the middle of an oval, pear or marquise that stays visible as the stone moves.

Can you buy a loose lab-grown diamond and have it set by a jeweller?

Yes, some jewellers will set a stone you bought elsewhere, but the terms vary and it does not always save money. Before you buy a loose stone, ask the jeweller who will make the ring:

  • Who is liable if the stone is damaged. Unique Diamonds' terms say it accepts no liability for breakage that may occur while setting, removing, resizing or repairing a supplied stone.
  • Whether the stone must be insured and certified. Kate & Kole requires supplied stones to be insured and certified, and says it charges a markup comparable to sourcing the stone itself, so supplying your own diamond typically does not reduce the cost.
  • Whether the stone suits the design. The jeweller needs the exact measurements before modelling the setting.
  • What the warranty covers. A warranty on the ring may not extend to a stone the jeweller did not supply.

Buying the stone and the setting from the same jeweller keeps the responsibility for both in one place.

How choosing a diamond works at Lily Dia

You choose your stone in the same place you design your ring. You start with the setting, choose the metal, band and ring size, and then pick your diamond from the 5,265 IGI-certified lab-grown stones we source, all D to F colour and VS1 clarity or better.

  • Filter by what matters to you: carat weight, colour, clarity, and length to width ratio on elongated shapes.
  • See the stone move. Most stones have a 360 degree video you can rotate before you choose.
  • Read the report. Each stone's IGI certificate opens from its details, so you can check the grades and report number.
  • Save stones to compare. Favourites keep the stones you like, with today's price.

Already bought a lab-grown diamond elsewhere? We will set a stone you bought from another seller too. Get in touch with its grading report, and we will talk you through the design around it.

If you would rather talk it through, you can book an appointment or ask us anything, and Brie will help you compare the stones you are considering.

Common questions

Can I see the diamond before it is set?

Online, you see the stone's video and grading report before you buy. Ask for the video of that exact stone rather than a sample, and check the report number with the lab.

Is it cheaper to buy a loose lab-grown diamond and a setting separately?

Not always. Some jewellers add a markup or a setting fee for supplied stones, and you may carry the risk if the stone is damaged. Compare the complete price, including setting, insurance and warranty.

What carat size should I choose?

Choose by millimetres on the hand, not the carat label. A round lab-grown diamond of about 1 carat on our feed measured 6.32 to 6.73mm across. Our 1 carat price chart shows what each shape costs at that size.

What colour and clarity should I choose for a lab-grown diamond?

D to F colour and VVS2 or VS1 clarity suit most rings. Our guide to the best colour and clarity for a lab-grown diamond shows what each grade costs.

Thanks for reading, Jared and Brie

Designed by us in Melbourne, made to order

Lily Dia is a small studio, so every ring is drawn, set and finished for the person wearing it. If this article helped, the collection shows how these choices look on real rings, and you can ask us anything before you decide.

View lab-grown diamond ringsOr ask us a question first