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Emerald Cut Diamond

Jared James, co-founder of LILY DIA

By Jared James ยท Last updated 21 May 2026

Quick answer

An emerald cut diamond is a step cut, which means it has long, open facets and neatly clipped corners, and it gives you a rectangular outline with broad flashes of light rather than the fast glitter of a brilliant cut. Clarity, colour and ratio all show up more clearly here than in other shapes, so most buyers start at VS1 or VS2 clarity, G colour or better, and a length-to-width ratio somewhere between 1.40 and 1.55 for a balanced, classic look.

Shape at a glance

Emerald Cut diamond outline-solid
The outline helps you judge ratio and setting balance before comparing individual diamond reports.
Emerald Cut Diamond quick facts
DetailTypical detailBuying note
Facet patternStep cut with long parallel facets and clipped corners.Those long open facets behave like a window, so inclusions and body colour show up more readily than they would in a brilliant cut.
Typical ratioAround 1.30 to 1.60, with 1.40 to 1.55 reading classic to many buyers.Lower ratios feel squarer and softer, while higher ratios feel longer and more Art Deco.
SparkleBroad flashes and mirror-like contrast rather than intense glitter.Judge the pattern of light and dark across the stone, not just the numbers on the grading report.
Best forMinimalist solitaires, bezel settings and Art Deco inspired three-stone rings.Choose emerald cut when you want quiet structure and clean lines more than maximum sparkle.

What is an Emerald Cut Diamond?

An emerald cut diamond has a rectangular outline with cropped corners and step-cut facets that run in long parallel lines, and instead of throwing out many tiny flashes the way a round brilliant does, it shows larger planes of light and shadow that shift as the stone moves.

Because the facets are so open, the stone behaves almost like a window, and that clear, drawn-in look is the whole character of the cut, but it also means clarity, colour and symmetry are far more visible than they are in a round, oval or cushion diamond.

A loose emerald cut diamond shown close up, its long parallel step facets and clipped corners creating broad flashes of light, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery
A guide to the hall of mirrors effect in an emerald cut diamond, where the long step facets draw the eye deep into the stone, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery

What to check before choosing

Best clarity for an emerald cut diamond

Start around VS1 or VS2 and always inspect the exact stone, because a clean-looking VS2 can work beautifully, while a dark inclusion sitting under the table is very hard to hide once those open step facets start behaving like a window.

Best colour grade for an emerald cut diamond

Emerald cuts tend to reveal warmth through the body of the stone, so G or better is a safe starting point in platinum or white gold, while a yellow or rose gold setting gives you room to drop a grade or two without it looking off.

Ideal ratio for an emerald cut diamond

A length-to-width ratio between 1.40 and 1.55 reads classic to most buyers, while anything lower starts to feel squarer and closer to an Asscher, and anything higher feels longer and more Art Deco. It is the biggest style decision you will make, so compare a few before you settle.

An emerald cut diamond length-to-width ratio guide, comparing slightly square ratios of 1.30 to 1.40, the classic 1.40 to 1.50 look and elongated ratios of 1.50 to 1.60 and above, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery
An emerald cut diamond clarity guide, showing VS1 and above as the safe eye-clean zone, SI2 as sometimes acceptable and SI1 and below as a poor fit because the large open table cannot hide inclusions, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery
An emerald cut diamond cut and proportions guide, explaining that fancy shapes have no official cut grade and giving an ideal depth percentage of 61 to 67 percent and table percentage of 61 to 69 percent, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery

Settings that suit this shape

  • A plain solitaire lets the geometry of the cut read clearly, with nothing competing for attention.
  • A bezel setting wraps and protects the clipped corners and gives the ring a smooth, architectural edge.
  • Tapered baguette side stones sit naturally beside an emerald cut because they repeat the same step-cut language.

Who does emerald cut suit?

Emerald cut suits anyone who prefers polish, structure and broad, slow flashes of light over fast glitter. It is a lovely choice for minimalist, Art Deco and east-west engagement rings.

Watch for

  • Inclusions sitting under the open table are much harder to disguise than they would be in a brilliant cut.
  • Body colour tends to show more than it does in a brilliant cut, so the colour grade matters.
  • A dull or watery emerald cut will not be rescued by a high carat weight, so cut quality has to come first.
An emerald cut diamond with inclusions visible under the open table, showing why clarity is harder to hide in this shape, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery
An emerald cut diamond with a warm, slightly yellow body colour, showing how readily an emerald cut reveals colour, an emerald cut diamond shape education guide by Lily Dia Jewellery

Watch: before you buy an emerald cut

A quick walkthrough of what to weigh up before you choose an emerald cut diamond.

Other diamond shapes

  1. #01

    Round

    If you want the most sparkle and the easiest stones to compare, the round brilliant is the shape to reach for. It is also the only common diamond shape that comes with a proper cut grade, so settle on cut quality first and then choose colour and clarity grades that still look clean and bright once the stone is set.

  2. #02

    Oval

    An oval diamond gives you a larger, more lengthening look than a round diamond of a similar weight, and it keeps the bright sparkle pattern of a brilliant cut. There is no single cut grade that tells you whether an oval is a good one, so the things to look at are the bow tie, the length-to-width ratio, the shape of the shoulders and how evenly the two ends mirror each other.

  3. #03

    Cushion Cut

    A cushion cut diamond has a square or rectangular outline with soft, rounded corners, and depending on the facet pattern it can look antique, modern, chunky or crushed ice. Many buyers find themselves choosing between a true square cushion at a ratio close to 1.00 and an elongated cushion somewhere around 1.15 to 1.30, so it helps to decide the sparkle style and the outline you want first, then compare colour, depth and setting from there.

  4. #04

    Marquise

    A marquise diamond is a long brilliant-cut shape with two gently pointed tips, and it gives you one of the largest face-up looks you can get for the carat weight, so it always makes a statement. The trade-off is that it needs excellent symmetry, a bow tie you can live with and tips that are properly protected, so choose it when you want length, drama and presence.

  5. #05

    Pear

    A pear shaped diamond, sometimes called a teardrop diamond, has one rounded end and one gently pointed tip. The things worth checking are the length-to-width ratio, which most buyers like somewhere between 1.50 and 1.70, the point alignment, the bow tie effect through the centre, and the prongs that keep the tip protected. Choose pear if you want an elongated shape with a little more softness than a marquise.

  6. #06

    Princess Cut

    A princess cut diamond is a square brilliant cut with sharp, uncut corners and plenty of sparkle. It is often called a square diamond, and it is a popular modern alternative to a round brilliant that usually costs a little less per carat. The one practical catch is that the sharp corners need protecting from chips, so look for V-prongs or a bezel, and keep an eye on face-up size, symmetry and colour near the edges.

  7. #07

    Radiant Cut

    A radiant cut diamond pairs a square or rectangular outline with cropped corners and brilliant-style facets. It gives more sparkle than an emerald cut and has softer corners than a princess cut, so it suits anyone who wants geometry without giving up brightness. The first thing to decide is whether you want a square radiant at a ratio close to 1.00 or an elongated one at 1.15 to 1.35, and from there you can check the centre brightness and the facet pattern.

  8. #08

    Asscher

    An asscher cut diamond is a square step cut with cropped corners and long, parallel facets that draw the eye down into the stone, giving the deep, concentric hall of mirrors look the shape is known for. It is essentially a square version of the emerald cut, so the same things matter most: clarity sits on show through the open facets, body colour can be visible, and you want a ratio close to square at around 1.00 to 1.05.

  9. #09

    Old Mine

    An old mine cut diamond is an antique cushion-shaped cut, hand-cut from roughly the early 1700s through to the late 1800s, long before electric light and modern faceting. It has a soft, squarish outline, a tall crown, a small table and a large open culet that shows as a little circle in the centre, and it was cut to glow under candlelight rather than to throw out the bright sparkle of a modern brilliant. No two are quite alike, so each stone is judged on its own.

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Frequently asked questions

What is an emerald cut diamond?
An emerald cut diamond is a rectangular step-cut diamond with cropped corners and long, parallel facets. Rather than the fast glitter of a round brilliant, it gives broad flashes of light and a clean, mirrored look that some people call the hall of mirrors effect.
What is the best clarity for an emerald cut diamond?
VS1 or VS2 is a sensible starting point, because the open step facets make inclusions easier to see than they are in most other shapes. Always inspect the exact stone for dark inclusions under the table before you buy.
What is the ideal ratio for an emerald cut diamond?
Most buyers land on a length-to-width ratio between 1.40 and 1.55. Lower ratios look squarer and closer to an Asscher, while higher ratios look longer and more Art Deco.
Are emerald cut diamonds more expensive?
Emerald cuts usually cost a little less per carat than round brilliants, because the cut retains more weight from the rough diamond. The final price still comes down to carat, colour, clarity, polish and symmetry.
What is the difference between an emerald cut and a radiant cut?
Both have a rectangular outline with cropped corners, but an emerald cut uses step facets and shows broad, slow flashes, while a radiant cut uses brilliant-style facets and shows far more sparkle. Emerald reads architectural and calm, radiant reads lively.
Are emerald cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
Yes. Emerald cuts are hard-wearing and elegant for everyday wear, and they look especially good in solitaire, bezel and Art Deco style engagement rings where the clean geometry is the whole point.

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