Princess Cut Diamond
By Jared James ยท Last updated 21 May 2026
Quick answer
A princess cut diamond is a square brilliant cut with sharp, uncut corners and plenty of sparkle. It is often called a square diamond, and it is a popular modern alternative to a round brilliant that usually costs a little less per carat. The one practical catch is that the sharp corners need protecting from chips, so look for V-prongs or a bezel, and keep an eye on face-up size, symmetry and colour near the edges.
Shape at a glance
| Detail | Typical detail | Buying note |
|---|---|---|
| Facet pattern | Square brilliant, often with 57 or more facets depending on the cut style. | It gives far more sparkle than a step-cut square shape like an Asscher. |
| Typical ratio | Around 1.00 to 1.05 for a square look. | A true square sits close to 1.00 and should not look stretched, unless you actually want a rectangular effect. |
| Sparkle | Bright and lively, with a crisp geometric outline. | Compare depth and face-up size, because some princess cuts carry their weight hidden underneath. |
| Best for | Modern solitaires, channel-set bands, halos and clean geometric designs. | Choose princess cut when you want crisp square geometry with strong sparkle. |
What is a Princess Cut Diamond?
A princess cut diamond is a square brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, uncut corners, and it manages to give a clean, geometric look while still throwing out plenty of sparkle.
It is less soft than a cushion and less open than an emerald cut, sitting somewhere crisper than both. Its one real practical issue is corner protection, because those sharp points are vulnerable if they are left exposed.
What to check before choosing
How to protect the corners of a princess cut diamond
The sharp corners are the most vulnerable part of a princess cut, so look for V-prongs, a bezel or a setting that physically covers each corner. This is the first practical thing to check for daily wear, especially on an engagement ring.
Face-up size of a princess cut diamond
Some princess cut diamonds carry a lot of weight deep in the pavilion, which means they can look smaller from above than their carat weight suggests. Compare the millimetre dimensions on the report rather than just the carat number, so you know how the stone will actually read on the hand.
Best colour grade for a princess cut diamond
Princess cut diamonds can show a little warmth near the corners, because colour tends to pool at the points. H or better is a comfortable starting point in platinum or white gold, while yellow and rose gold are more forgiving of a lower colour grade.
Settings that suit this shape
- A 4-prong solitaire with V-prongs is the classic protective setting, and it keeps the look clean.
- A channel-set band pairs well with a princess cut, because square stones sit neatly in a row with no gaps.
- A halo adds size and tucks protection around the outline, though it does soften the clean square look a little.
Who does princess cut suit?
Princess cut suits anyone who wants a crisp, modern square diamond with more sparkle than an emerald cut. It works best in structured designs where the corners are properly protected.
Watch for
- Exposed corners can chip if the ring is knocked, so the setting has to cover them.
- A deep stone can face up smaller than you expect for its carat weight.
- A slightly rectangular outline can be noticeable in a simple setting, so check the ratio if you want a true square.
Other diamond shapes
- #01
Round
If you want the most sparkle and the easiest stones to compare, the round brilliant is the shape to reach for. It is also the only common diamond shape that comes with a proper cut grade, so settle on cut quality first and then choose colour and clarity grades that still look clean and bright once the stone is set.
- #02
Oval
An oval diamond gives you a larger, more lengthening look than a round diamond of a similar weight, and it keeps the bright sparkle pattern of a brilliant cut. There is no single cut grade that tells you whether an oval is a good one, so the things to look at are the bow tie, the length-to-width ratio, the shape of the shoulders and how evenly the two ends mirror each other.
- #03
Emerald Cut
An emerald cut diamond is a step cut, which means it has long, open facets and neatly clipped corners, and it gives you a rectangular outline with broad flashes of light rather than the fast glitter of a brilliant cut. Clarity, colour and ratio all show up more clearly here than in other shapes, so most buyers start at VS1 or VS2 clarity, G colour or better, and a length-to-width ratio somewhere between 1.40 and 1.55 for a balanced, classic look.
- #04
Cushion Cut
A cushion cut diamond has a square or rectangular outline with soft, rounded corners, and depending on the facet pattern it can look antique, modern, chunky or crushed ice. Many buyers find themselves choosing between a true square cushion at a ratio close to 1.00 and an elongated cushion somewhere around 1.15 to 1.30, so it helps to decide the sparkle style and the outline you want first, then compare colour, depth and setting from there.
- #05
Marquise
A marquise diamond is a long brilliant-cut shape with two gently pointed tips, and it gives you one of the largest face-up looks you can get for the carat weight, so it always makes a statement. The trade-off is that it needs excellent symmetry, a bow tie you can live with and tips that are properly protected, so choose it when you want length, drama and presence.
- #06
Pear
A pear shaped diamond, sometimes called a teardrop diamond, has one rounded end and one gently pointed tip. The things worth checking are the length-to-width ratio, which most buyers like somewhere between 1.50 and 1.70, the point alignment, the bow tie effect through the centre, and the prongs that keep the tip protected. Choose pear if you want an elongated shape with a little more softness than a marquise.
- #07
Radiant Cut
A radiant cut diamond pairs a square or rectangular outline with cropped corners and brilliant-style facets. It gives more sparkle than an emerald cut and has softer corners than a princess cut, so it suits anyone who wants geometry without giving up brightness. The first thing to decide is whether you want a square radiant at a ratio close to 1.00 or an elongated one at 1.15 to 1.35, and from there you can check the centre brightness and the facet pattern.
- #08
Asscher
An asscher cut diamond is a square step cut with cropped corners and long, parallel facets that draw the eye down into the stone, giving the deep, concentric hall of mirrors look the shape is known for. It is essentially a square version of the emerald cut, so the same things matter most: clarity sits on show through the open facets, body colour can be visible, and you want a ratio close to square at around 1.00 to 1.05.
- #09
Old Mine
An old mine cut diamond is an antique cushion-shaped cut, hand-cut from roughly the early 1700s through to the late 1800s, long before electric light and modern faceting. It has a soft, squarish outline, a tall crown, a small table and a large open culet that shows as a little circle in the centre, and it was cut to glow under candlelight rather than to throw out the bright sparkle of a modern brilliant. No two are quite alike, so each stone is judged on its own.
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View princess cut ringsFrequently asked questions
- What is a princess cut diamond?
- A princess cut diamond is a square brilliant-cut diamond with sharp, uncut corners. It is the most popular square shape for engagement rings, and it gives strong sparkle inside a clean, geometric outline.
- Are princess cut diamonds sparkly?
- Yes. Princess cuts use a brilliant-style facet pattern, so a well-cut princess shows strong fire and sparkle, not far off a round brilliant but in a square outline.
- What is the best clarity for a princess cut diamond?
- VS1 or VS2 is a sensible starting point for most buyers. The brilliant facets help hide small inclusions, but always inspect the exact stone for anything sitting near the corners.
- Are princess cut diamonds cheaper than round?
- Usually, yes. Princess cuts retain more weight from the rough diamond, so they often cost 10 to 30 percent less per carat than a round brilliant of a similar grade. The exact saving depends on the supplier and the specific stone.
- What is the difference between a princess cut and a round diamond?
- A round brilliant has a circular outline and the most standardised sparkle, and it is the only common shape with a formal cut grade. A princess cut is square with sharp corners, gives a more modern geometric look and usually costs less per carat, though those corners need extra protection.
- Are princess cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
- Yes. Princess cuts are hard-wearing for daily wear as long as the corners are protected by V-prongs, a bezel, a halo or a channel setting. They look especially good in clean, modern designs.
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